Resin vs Plastic Miniatures: Which Is Better for Gaming and Painting?

The choice between resin miniatures vs plastic comes up early in any tabletop hobby. Resin gives you sharper detail and a weightier feel in hand, making it the go-to for RPG characters, boss monsters and centrepiece models. Hard plastic wins on durability and price per figure, which is why it dominates large wargame infantry kits. The right call depends on what you are building and how you plan to paint it.

What is the difference between resin and plastic miniatures?

Most miniatures are made from one of three materials: hard plastic (polystyrene or PVC), resin (photopolymer from 3D printing, or polyurethane from traditional casting), or metal. Hard plastic is what most boxed wargame kits use. It bonds with polystyrene cement, cuts cleanly and handles repeated handling well. Resin is what boutique designers and 3D-print services use when detail is the priority, which is why it is the material of choice for the designers we licence at TabletopXtra.

Everything we sell is printed in SLA photopolymer resin. The layer height on an SLA print can be as fine as 0.05mm, meaning facial features, fabric textures and engraved details reproduce cleanly. You can browse our full range to see what that looks like across scales and genres.

Are resin miniatures good for gaming and painting?

For character pieces, player miniatures, monsters and anything you plan to spend real time painting, resin is the better material. The surface holds fine detail that hard plastic struggles to match, and the soft PVC used in many board game miniature sets is worse still. Most of the sculptors we work with release in resin for this reason: a well-printed resin miniature takes paint cleanly once properly primed, and the depth of the sculpt gives washes and highlights more to work with.

Where resin falls short is cost and handling. A single resin character costs more than the equivalent plastic figure from a boxed kit. And it requires a bit more care before painting, starting with what primer you use and how you prepare the surface.

Are resin miniatures brittle or fragile?

More so than hard plastic, yes. Thin sections like sword tips, spear shafts, outstretched fingers and wings are vulnerable to snapping if dropped, particularly in cold temperatures when the material goes stiffer. This reputation follows resin around and it is not unfair.

Modern SLA photopolymer resin is noticeably tougher than the older casting resins of a decade ago. It flexes slightly before breaking rather than shattering. Keeping models in foam-lined carry cases, handling them by the base rather than by protruding parts, and doing repairs with thin superglue (not plastic cement, which does not bond resin) reduces the risk considerably. We have a full guide to storing and caring for resin miniatures if you want the detail on that.

Resin vs plastic miniatures: the comparison at a glance

How does painting resin minis vs plastic differ?

The painting sequence follows the same steps as any miniature: prime, basecoat, wash, layer, varnish. What differs is the prep before priming. Resin prints and casts often carry a residue from the printing or release process on the surface, and if you prime over that without washing it off first, paint can chip or peel even through a varnished coat. A brief rinse in isopropyl alcohol (IPA) sorts this out in a couple of minutes.

Choose a primer that works with resin. A standard grey spray primer is usually fine; test it on a scrap piece first if you are unsure. Avoid primers formulated specifically for metal, as some react poorly with photopolymer resin. Once primed correctly, resin takes paint better than PVC. The surface grips basecoats and washes reliably, and the sculpt depth gives you more to shade and highlight.

We cover the full prep and painting process in our guide to painting resin miniatures. If you are also weighing up 3D-printed resin against filament-printed (FDM) models, our resin vs FDM guide goes into that comparison in depth.

Frequently asked questions

Are resin miniatures good for beginners?

Yes, with one extra step to learn. The IPA rinse before priming is one more job compared to plastic, but it takes two minutes and makes a real difference to how well paint sticks. After that, resin takes paint like any properly primed surface. Single-character resin miniatures are actually a good starting point because the sculpt detail makes washes and highlights more forgiving to apply than on a shallower plastic model.

Why are resin miniatures fragile?

Resin does not bend the way hard plastic does. It holds its shape until it breaks, which is what gives the surface such crisp detail and what makes thin protruding parts vulnerable to impact. Colder temperatures make the material stiffer and increase the snap risk. Store at room temperature, use foam for transport, and handle by the base rather than by arms, weapons or wings.

Are resin figures better than PVC for painting?

For painting purposes, yes. PVC, the soft plastic used in many pre-assembled board game figures and cheaper miniature sets, is notoriously difficult to prime and paint reliably. Paint flexes with the material and peels even through varnish. Resin holds primer and paint far better, and the sculpt detail is sharper. If you are choosing between a resin miniature and a soft-plastic PVC figure to paint, resin is the easier material to work with.

Do I need to prime resin miniatures before painting?

Yes. Primer is non-negotiable on resin, just as it is on plastic and metal. Without it, paint does not grip the surface and chips with handling. Rinse the model in IPA first to remove any surface residue, let it dry, then apply a light coat of spray or brush-on primer. Grey or white primer suits most colour schemes; black works well for darker colour schemes and naturally shades recessed areas.

Can resin miniatures be converted or kitbashed?

Yes, though the technique differs from plastic. Resin does not bond with polystyrene cement, so use superglue or two-part epoxy for joins. Drilling and pinning limb joins adds strength and is worth doing on any large conversion or joint that will bear weight. Resin cuts cleanly with a hobby knife or razor saw and sands well, which makes repositioning limbs and swapping parts manageable once you are comfortable with the material.